UNCATEGORIES

☓ Free No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks download sites ☻ By Ed Viesturs ♒

☓ Free No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks download sites ☻ By Ed Viesturs ♒ ☓ Free No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks download sites ☻ By Ed Viesturs ♒ CHAPTER 1SelfArrestAt last things seemed to be going our way Inside our Camp III tent, at 24,300 feet, Scott Fischer and I crawled into our sleeping bags and turned off our headlamps The next day, we planned to climb up to Camp IV, at 26,000 feet On the day after, we would get up in the middle of the night, put on all our clothing, grab our gear and a little food, and set off for the summit of K2, at 28,250 feet the second highest mountain in the world From Camp IV, the 2,250 vertical feet of snow, ice, and rock that would stretch between us and the top could take as long as twelve hours to climb, since neither Scott nor I was using supplemental oxygen We had agreed that if we hadnt reached the summit by two P.M., wed turn aroundno matter what It was the evening of August 3, 1992 Fifty four days earlier, we had started our hike in to base camp on the Baltoro Glacier, which we had reached on June 21 Before the trip, even in my most pessimistic scenario I had never imagined that it could take us than six weeks just to get in position for a summit push But this expedition had seemed jinxed from the startby hideous weather, by minor but consequential accidents, by an almost chaotic state of disorganization within our team.As usual in the midst of a several day summit push at high altitude, Scott and I were too keyed up to fall asleep We tossed and turned in our sleeping bags Then suddenly, around ten P.M., the radio in our tent crackled to life I turned on my headlamp, grabbed the walkietalkie, and listened intently The voice on the radio was that of Thor Kieser, another American, calling from Camp IV, 1,700 feet above us Hey, guys, Thor blurted out, his voice tense with alarm Chantal and Alex arent back I dont know where they are.I sighed in pure frustration In the beam of my headlamp, I saw a kindred expression on Scotts face Without exchanging a word, we knew what this meant Our summit push was now on indefinite hold Instead of moving up to Camp IV to get into position, the next day we would find ourselves caught up in a searchand possibly a rescue The jinx was alive and well.On August 3, as Scott and I had made the long haul from base camp up to Camp III a grueling 7,000 feet of altitude gain , Thor Kieser, Chantal Mauduit, and Aleksei Nikiforov had gone for the summit from Camp IV Chantal, a very ambitious French alpinist, had originally been part of a Swiss team independent from ours When all of her partners had thrown in the towel on the mountain and left for home, she had stayed on illegally, in terms of the permit system and in effect grafted herself onto our group She was now the only woman on the mountain Alekseior Alex, as we called himwas a Ukrainian member of the Russian quintet that made up the core of our team.That morning, Alex and Thor had set out at fivethirty a.m., Chantal not until seven These starting times were much later than Scott and I would have been comfortable with, but the threesome had been delayed because of no shortcuts to the top high winds Remarkably, climbing without bottled oxygen, Chantal caught up with the men and surged past them Struggling in the thin air, Thor turned back a few hundred feet below the summit, unwilling to get caught out in the dark Chantal summited at five p.m., becoming only the fourth woman ever to climb K2 Alex topped out only after dark, at seven p.m.The proverbial two p.m turn around time isnt an ironclad rule on K2 or on Everest, for that matter , but to reach the summit as late as Chantal and Alex did was asking for trouble And trouble had now arrived On the morning of August 4, as Scott and I readied ourselves for the search and or rescue mission that would cancel our own summit bid, we got another radio call from Thor The two missing climbers had finally showed up at Camp IV, at seven in the morning, but they were in really bad shape Chantal had been afraid to push her descent in the night and had bivouacked in the open at 27,500 feet Three hours later, Alex had found her and talked her into continuing the descent with himpossibly saving her life.Staggering through the night, the pair had managed to stay on route no mean feat in the dark, given the confusing topography of K2s domeshaped summit But by the time they reached the tents at Camp IV, Chantal was suffering from snow blindness, a painful condition caused by leaving your goggles off for too long, even in cloudy weather Ultraviolet rays burn the cornea, temporarily robbing you of your vision Chantal was also utterly exhausted, and she thought she had frostbitten feet In only marginally better shape, but determined to get down as fast as possible, Alex abandoned Chantal to Thors safekeeping and pushed on toward our Camp III He just said, Bye bye and took off.Thor himself was close to exhaustion from his previous days effort, but on August 4 he gamely set out to shepherd a playedout Chantal down the mountain Its an almost impossible and incredibly dangerous task to get a person in that kind of shape down slopes and ridges that are no childs play for even the freshest climber Thor had scrounged a ten foot hank of rope from somewherethats all he had to belay Chantal with, and maybe to rappel.Over the radio to us, Thor had pleaded, Hey, you guys, I might need some help to get her down So Scott and I had made the only conscionable decision to go up and help As we were getting ready, we watched as Alex haltingly worked his way down the slope above, eventually stumbling toward camp We went up a short distance to assist him, then helped him get into one of the tents, where we plied and plied him with liquids, since he was severely dehydrated Meanwhile, surprisingly, he didnt show any concern for Chantal.Going to the summit, both he and Chantal had pushed themselves over the edge, driven themselves to their very limits It happens all the time on the highest mountains, but its kind of ridiculous To make matters worse, on August 4 the snow conditions were atrocious Same with the weather zero visibility Scott and I tried to go, made it up the slope for a couple of hours, then had to turn around and head back to camp We made plans for another attempt the following day.We were in radio communication with Thor Hed started to bring Chantal down to Camp III, but he only got partway They had to camp right in the middle of a steep slope, almost a bivouac, though Thor had been smart enough to bring a tent with him.The next day, August 5, Scott and I got up, packed our gear, and started up again, hoping we could meet up with Thor and Chantal and help them back to our camp At some point, we could see them through the mist and clouds, two little dots above It was blowing hard, and little spindrift avalanches were coming down the slope we were climbing Part of it was stuff Thor and Chantal were kicking off from way above, stuff that by the time it got to us was a little bigger But no really big slides Id scrounged a fiftyfoot length of rope, with which Scott and I were tied together, because of the crevasses that riddled the slope.At one point, Scott was above me Something just didnt feel right I yelled up to Scott, Wait a minute, this is not a good slope It was loaded, ready to avalanche If youve done enough climbing, you can feel the load on a slope I attribute that sense to the years of guiding Id done by that point in my life At that time, Scott hadnt done as much guiding as I had.We stopped in our tracks I said, Man, lets not get ourselves killed doing this Lets discuss this Scott sat down facing out, looking down at me I figured, if a big spindrift slide comes down now, were going to get washed off the face.I started digging a hole with my ice ax, thinking I might protect myself if a slide came from above After a few moments, I looked up just in time to see Scott engulfed by a wave of powder He disappeared from sight At once I tucked into my hole and anchored myself, lying on top of my ax, the pick dug into the slope Bracing myself for impact, I thought, Here it comes It got dark it got quiet I felt snow wash over my back The lights literally went out I hung on and hung on And then, the avalanche seemed to subside I thought Id saved myself I thought, Wow, my little trick worked.But the fact was, Scott had been blindsided He was tumbling with the snow, getting swept down the face He hurtled past me, out of control Scott was a big guy, maybe 225 pounds I weigh 165.The rope came tight Boom There was no way I could hold both of us I got yanked out of my hole, like getting yanked out of bed I knew instantly what had happened Scott was plummeting down the mountain, with me in tow, connected by what should have been our lifeline And there were 8,000 vertical feet of cliff below us.If youre caught in an avalanche and careening down the slope, there are several ways of trying to save yourself One of the ways is called a selfarrest The idea is to get your ice ax underneath your body, lie on it with all your weight, hold on to the head, and try to dig the pick into the slope, like a brake.Id learned the self arrest when Id started climbing, and as a guide Id taught it to countless clients So the instinct was automatic It ran through my head even as I was getting jerked and pummeled around by the avalanche Number one Never let go of your ax Number two Arrest Arrest Arrest I kept jabbing with the pick of the ax, but the snow beneath me was so dry, the pick just kept slicing through Id reach and dig, reach and dig.Yet I wasnt frantic Everything sEd Viesturs is not merely one of our strongest mountaineers hes also one of the most remarkable Hes demonstrated that its possible to climb the worlds highest peaks without taking reckless chances, and without sacrificing ones honor or integrity He has never hesitated to help other climbers in need, even when it meant putting himself in danger or sacrificing his own opportunity to achieve a summit Ed, simply put, is a genuine American hero Jon Krakauer From the drama of the peaks, to the struggle of making a living as a professional climber, to the basic how tos of life at 26,000 feet, No Shortcuts to the Top is fascinating reading Aron Ralston, author of Between a Rock and a Hard Place Ed Viestursthe first American to climb all fourteen 8,000 meter peaks without bottled oxygenis an animal A human animal blessed with enormous strength balanced by intelligence, honesty, and a heart of gold And besides, HE IS A NICE GUY.This is a great read for those of us who climb, those who want to learn to climb and live to tell about it, and those who like great adventures Jim Whittaker, first American to climb Mount EverestEd Viesturs was an inspiration to me personally and to the Seahawks team in 2005 I highly recommend reading this account of one of Americas heroes Mike Holmgren, coach of the Seattle Seahawks No Shortcuts Organizing for Power in the New Enter your mobile number or email address below and we ll send you a link to download free Kindle App Then can start reading books on smartphone, tablet, computer no There Are Rafe Esquith There FREE shipping qualifying offers Year after year, s fifth grade students excel They read passionately, far above their level tackle algebra stage Shakespeare so professionally that they Technology Good Education Kentaro Toyama are technology shortcuts good education For primary secondary schools underperforming limited resources, efforts improve should focus almost exclusively better teachers stronger administrations No We Need Strategy LeftRoots By N Tanya Lee Steve Williams The need develop strategy cohere different parts of our movement has never been clearer Both us have shaped by years organizing young, homeless people, working class African Americans Latinas Authentic, Shortcuts, Louisiana Red Beans Rice This is my take classic Put everything into slow cooker morning will meal ready late afternoon evening, whenever recipe feed lot people Office longer work solutions answers provided Experts Exchange extremely helpful me over last few I wear hats Developer, Database Administrator, Help Desk, etc know things but not about one thing Handling Keyboard JavaScript Despite many JavaScript libraries available today, cannot find makes it easy add keyboard accelerators javascript app because where only used games serious web application navigate around its interface But Google apps like Reader Gmail changed Shortcuts Trello A list Autocomplete Members When writing comment, type plus member name, username, intials get matching members Bing See topics PopularEd Viesturs Ed Latest Book THE Mountain Veteran world climber bestselling author Viesturs American climbed all fourteen , meter peaks, sixth man do without supplemental oxygen trains his sights Mount Everest, highest peak earth, richly detailed accounts expeditions turns personal, harrowing, deadly About Ed Washington resident widely regarded as this country foremost high altitude mountaineer He familiar from IMAX Everest Expedition documentary he was awarded historic Lowell Thomas Award Explorer Club outstanding achievement field mountaineering K Life Death World Most Dangerous dangerous than K, every four climbers reached summit, person died K details six with plenty highs lows each The My Time Viesturs, David Roberts In national bestseller renowned cowriter paint vivid portrait obsession eBook Mountain, obsession, dedication, human true love letter veteran Hidden Game Official Hidden game site Race roof exotic Object Big Fish Games Welcome GreatOutdoors Welcome GreatOutdoors Inspiration information quenches thirst adventure through inspiring photo galleries action videos, captivating stories, up date news profiles top outdoor athletes Anatoli Boukreev Wikipedia Anatoli Nikolaevich Russian January December Kazakhstani who made ascents eight thousander ie peaks m ft EverestNews largest publication days Today News Coverage Notes Everest Movie vs True Story Disaster Climbing biggest mistake ve ever life wish d gone suffered PTSD, still suffer what happened glad wrote book But, know, if could go back relive life, would Jon Krakauer No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks

 

    • No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks
    • 3.4
    • 276
    • Format Kindle
    • 0767924703
    • Ed Viesturs
    • Anglais
    • 18 September 2016

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *