↲ Format Kindle Force of Nature: Mind, Body, Soul and, of Course, Surfing- uk ⇸ E-Pub Author Laird Hamilton ∣

↲ Format Kindle Force of Nature: Mind, Body, Soul and, of Course, Surfing- uk ⇸ E-Pub Author Laird Hamilton ∣ ↲ Format Kindle Force of Nature: Mind, Body, Soul and, of Course, Surfing- uk ⇸ E-Pub Author Laird Hamilton ∣ PART 1 MINDWe re all human, which means we all have the same opportunities and the same struggles It s all about that voice inside our head that we call our mind what it leads us to believe determines how we act and how our lives unfold Which is why when I catch myself thinking bleak thoughts, I ll go out and do something physically strenuous, like clear brush or move rocks or paddle down the coast.I believe that our thoughts have real, powerful effects on us For instance, let s say you wake up one morning in a rotten mood You don t know why, but you re just looking for a fight Well, in my experience, the moment you walk out your front door you re going to find someone who wants to fight you back He ll probably be standing right there On the other hand, if you re just thinking about enjoying yourself, you re probably not running into a lot of complications Everything comes down to attitude You determine what yours is, and the external world will reflect it back.Whether that s good news or bad news depends on you on your outlook If you think you re not able to do something, guess what You re right What if you believe that everything s for the best and see the beauty all around you, and you have faith that things will be good You re right, too If you cultivate something in your mind, you give it a life It s really that simple.RISK AND ITS REWARDSA LITTLE ADRENALINE EVERY DAY KEEPS THE BOREDOM AWAY.When I was 10, my step father took me to Waimea Falls on Oahu I walked to the edge of a 60 foot cliff, and when he looked away, I jumped For whatever reason, from the start it s been in my spirit to do those kinds of things I ve always wanted to jump from the highest place, experience the greatest thrill.I may be an extreme case, but we all need to take risks I think it goes back to our primitive state, our deepest DNA, when we were hunters and had to avoid getting eaten by large animals Survival meant risk The need for adventure is part of human nature It s in every cell of our bodies When some people hear the word risk, they think of life or death situations that they d rather avoid But risk doesn t always have to be life threatening It can be as simple as putting yourself in an unfamiliar situation.Some people don t need to go out of their way to seek risk If you live in Afghanistan, for instance, you re not in need of any extra uncertainty But for those of us who are fortunate enough to live in places where our lives are relatively safe, I think if we challenged ourselves even scared ourselves once a day, we d be better people It helps to have that little jolt of perspective to remind you that life s fragile.The distinction between being courageous and being reckless is an important one Courageous means you re able to calculate what you re doing In my life I ve taken calculated risks, as well as inadvertent risks I ve seen 18 foot long tiger sharks in the water with me I ve been trapped under waterfalls My mom was surprised that I made it to my 20th birthday I guess it s the whole nine lives thing There were a few close calls, but I m still here I ve got a few of those nine lives left.DEALING WITH FEAR AND NEGATIVITYMAKE SURE YOUR WORST ENEMY DOESN T LIVE BETWEEN YOUR OWN TWO EARS.FEAR NOT TO BE FEARED Every so often, in an article or an interview, someone describes me as fearless In my opinion, that s like calling me an idiot Fear is a natural response Without it, we wouldn t survive If you re never scared, then you ve either never been hurt or you re completely ignorant The idea that fear is something to deny is completely misguided.Forget your emotions around fear for a second and look at the simple reality It s an energy source designed to increase performance Adrenaline and the natural hormones your body creates when you re scared are powerful than any drug The ability to harness it constructively, that s the tricky part Once you start to understand fear, it becomes something you can tap into In my experience, fear usually prompts me to make really good decisions I d even go so far as to say that it gives me power.How do you use fear to empower yourself You don t fight it, and you don t overanalyze it Thinking too much about a frightening situation causes your mind to start chattering, and it gets in the way of your body.At Teahupoo, Tahiti, in 2000, I faced what has been, to date, the most dangerous situation of my career I d surfed this wave before, but never at the size it was that day and neither had anybody else The thing about Teahupoo is that it s a massively thick, deep, fast moving barrel, and when it breaks it heaves so much water over the falls that it practically drains the reef And the noise you d think it was a neutron bomb exploding If you fall in the wrong conditions at Teahupoo, you re looking at a serious problem possibly the last one you ll ever have.When I let go of the rope after being towed in, I knew that the wave I d just caught was a monster But a split second later, I realized that it was actually a two headed monster, unlike anything I d ever ridden My mind tried every trick in the book to get me to doubt my ability to survive what everyone could see and I instinctively knew, even though it was behind me was a potentially fatal ride But if I had listened to those panicked thoughts and jumped off that wave, I probably wouldn t be here to tell you not to let panic dictate your actions.If you think about it, the flip side of fear is commitment You can spend your life fence sitting because you re frightened of something bad that might happen or you can launch yourself into it with all of your conviction and all of your intelligence Here s my advice Meet up with your fears If you re afraid of sharks, go learn all about sharks Get into the water with one If you respect fear, face it straight on and act anyway What you ll find isn t terror it s exhilaration and the moments that you never forget.NEGATIVITY WE ALL GET IT, BUT THAT DOESN T MEAN YOU HAVE TO TAKE IT Negativity is going to crop up in your mind I think that s an unfortunate part of being human It s as sure as daytime, nighttime The question is How much life do you give it How dominant do you let it get You have to make sure that the positive has power and gets time in your head than the negative If you let that negative side take charge, you re going to find yourself in a hole.I can be as negative as anyone, but when it comes to what I m doing in sports, that stuff is out For instance, if I m surfing and I start thinking about wiping out, that is getting pushed out of my brain I m consciously removing that thought that s not something I m giving any kind of life to Mental discipline is key and when it comes down to it, negativity is the easy way out Quitting easy Daring to triumph hard.DROPPING INGABBY REECEI think I m a pretty good athlete I mean a good athlete But it s a humbling thing being with someone like Laird There are the 1 percent athletes the people who are at the top of the college sports scene the ones who become pros About 1 percent of talented athletes will make it that far But then, every so often, you get a Tiger Woods He s like the 1 percent of the 1 percent a different breed And Laird is in that group I ve been around a lot of pro athletes, and I ll watch him training and think, That s just a whole other existence going on over there Being around someone with that talent, whether it s in sports or art or science or whatever you don t get in the way of it You ve got to support it because it s unique.When we met, I knew exactly what Laird did for a living As far as being nervous about it, I think I just accepted a long time ago that it s part of his destiny You couldn t live with him if he wasn t doing it It s all part of the deal Over the years I ve come to understand surfing and to appreciate how Laird approaches his sport He has a lot of control and a lot of speed His board is pushed into the wave rather than chattering across the face Often he ll ride in a deeper position than other surfers, farther away from the shoulder, the wave s outside edge.Even though the situations he s in can be radical and powerful, there s something straightforward about his arena Nature isn t as capricious as humans are The ocean lets you know up front I m dangerous And I m coming from the north It s consistent that way I m not going to say there aren t days when I say, Hey, could you just call me when you get in Please just check in with me Because you do have those days.Your mind has 100 percent power over your reality Whatever you believe, that s what you are cultivating So if you re hurt and you re funneling all your energy into thinking I m getting better, I m getting stronger then that s what will happen At the same time, if you re thinking Poor me I m wounded I m never going to be the same, then you will end up with the fruits of those seeds.If you re plagued by negative thoughts, here s a simple cure Do something If you think about it, negative thoughts are a luxury They re a way to avoid getting down to work We are each our own greatest inhibitors We stop ourselves The irony is that if you just get out of your own way, you ll do really well And the sooner you face the work, the easier it ll be The work will actually be the fun part.CULTIVATING INSTINCTSSMELL, SIGHT, HEARING, TASTE, TOUCH DON T FORGET YOUR SIXTH SENSE ANIMAL INSTINCT NOT ONLY IS IT REAL, IT CAN SAVE YOUR LIFE.No matter what it was whether someone was bitten by a shark, fell off a cliff, or anything I ll bet 95 percent of the time anyone who s had something bad happen to them had a feeling right before That prickly feeling on the back of your neck that says, That s a dangerous spot It s an intuition we ve developed as a species because it s been necessary for survival over millions of years And yet animal instinct isn t something we pay much attention to on a day in, day out basis To a large extent, modern life has removed the necessity of being on our toes The average person loses a lot of those signals.I m consciously aware of trying to cultivate my instincts The less you react to them, the less you have them They become numb And I think most mistakes come when you don t pay attention to that inner knowledge Ignore it and you end up going against your natural instincts Learning to interpret what that sixth sense is telling you is as important as living and dying I learned that the hard way.Three years ago, I was heli snowboarding in the Caucasus Mountains in Russia, between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea Little place called Sochi I was with a group that included other snowboarders and some guides, and before we went out, we d had this safety meeting about how to walk near cornices, which are always dangerous because they can collapse and there s usually nothing beneath them but air The guides stressed that if we saw stones which can indicate an edge , we should always walk on the inside of them But as we made our way along the steep traverse, the guides weren t doing that I had a funny feeling, a sense something wasn t right, and I hollered at the guy in front of me At the moment I yelled, I fell through a cornice, and due to nothing but luck, I landed on a rock shelf a few feet below Had that shelf not been there, I would have fallen 1,500 feet to my death And then I was thoroughly pissed These guides were supposed to be getting me down safely I was going down all right the long way down, and the wrong way down.When we re not operating in life or death situations, a lot of times we tune out If you re sitting behind a desk all day, you don t have to be hyperaware But it s important to exercise your instincts like you would a muscle If you don t try to tune in to every thing smell, hearing, sight, vibration you can get dull, and that might come back to haunt you when it matters most.You can start by consciously turning your senses on Be still, stay rooted in the present moment, and you ll start to become aware of all kinds of subtle things you hadn t noticed Try to detect very faint smells Or train your eyes to adjust easily to the dark The you play with your senses, the you re aware of them, the you re in them And the you use them, the better you get.THE JOY OF BEING A BEGINNEROR, WHY IT S GOOD TO BE BAD.In general, people don t want to try new things if they think they re going to be bad at them The tendency is to say, I haven t done that, I don t need to do that, I m not good at that You guys go on ahead But the truth is, you have to be willing to subject yourself to failure, to be bad at something, to fall on your butt and do it again, and try stuff you ve never done That s the ideal mind set in sports and in life you have to be willing to have people laugh at you at first.Why Because you need to keep challenging yourself That s the whole idea behind seeking out things you re not good at It forces your mind to engage When you reach a certain level of proficiency in a sport or activity, your effort level is really diminished Your body has adapted For me personally, cross training snowboarding, windsurfing, and mountain biking keeps me physically and mentally sharp Learning different sports always has a positive effect on my surfing When you re a novice at something, it takes focus and concentration.When you ve got something mastered, it takes a lot for you to have fun, but when you re new at something, you have fewer expectations, so it s easier Trying something for the first time, you may think you ve just been out fumbling around for a few hours But in truth, you ve worked your brain, your nervous system your entire body than you know.Laird Hamilton has been hailed as the world s greatest big wave surfer His first book, Force of Nature, allows readers a rare glimpse inside the unique philosophy that has created his circumstances, and not the other way around After all, this is a man whose biological father abandoned him shortly after he was born whose first job was working on a pig far who dropped out of school in eleventh grade And then the career decision surfer Though earning enough to pay the rent as any kind of surfer is next to impossible, Hamilton has ended up in the place we all desire to be doing exactly what he loves, becoming the world s best in the process, making a great living, being surrounded by nature and family, radiating peak health and fitness, and succeeding by any definition of the word.How did he get there And importantly, how can the rest of us join him Force of Nature is a detailed map to that destination, with Laird Hamilton as the reader s guide It s not about chasing trophies or accolades or cash It s about quality over quantity, soul and being true to your physical, mental, and spiritual roots Not only is it possible to thrive in the modern world without adopting its harmful habits, it s essential And not only has Hamilton mastered this balance, he makes a compelling and articulate case that anyone who wants to can do the same.This book is a deeply authoritative and cutting edge guide to peak fitness in mind, body, sould, and surfing It comes directly from the source and his inner circle, which includes those at the vanguard of sports, training, nutrition, and Former pro volleyball player Gabrielle Reece surf legend Dave Kalama fitness gurus Paul Chek, T.R Goodman, and Don Wildman and Food Network star Giada De Laurentiis all contribute their knowledge Readers will get an all access pass into an elite world filled with definitive and provocative ideas. Force Wikipedia In physics, a force is any interaction that, when unopposed, will change the motion of an object A can cause with mass to its velocity which includes begin moving from state rest , ie accelerateForce also be described intuitively as push or pull has both magnitude and direction, making it force English Spanish Dictionary WordReference Translation Spanish, pronunciation, forum discussions FARSite Federal Acquisition Regulation Site NOTE The FARSite authoritative source for AFFARS only electronic representation FAR other supplements Home NSW Police Public RT DFATNSW Cracking day at coogee beach th InternationalStudent Beach Soccer tournament biggest yet, teams, inc Friction normal defined net compressing two parallel surfaces together direction perpendicular simple case resting on horizontal surface, component due gravity, whereIn this case, friction product HRSD HRSD HRSD provides regional wastewater treatment cities counties in southeast Virginia, operating nine major plants Hampton Roads four smaller Middle Peninsula For questions about service billing please contact us by email ask hrsd In legislation Queensland Legislation State Office Parliamentary Counsel Ver Rev National Museum USAF Official website National US Air Force Power Naomi WINNER OF THE BAILEYS WOMEN S PRIZE FOR FICTION What would happen if women suddenly possessed fierce new power POWER, world recognizable place there s rich Nigerian boy who lounges around family pool foster kid whose religious parents hide their true nature ambitious American Fragrant Nature Brand Story Experiences beyond locations, Warmth comforts, Nature style All Fragrant Hotels have stunning locations breathtaking views quintessential identity Rousseau Social Contract Book III DreamHost BOOK BEFORE speaking different forms government, let try fix exact sense word, not yet been very clearly explained GOVERNMENT IN GENERAL I WARN reader that chapter requires careful reading, am unable make myself clear those refuse attentive Select Task Study Harassment EXECUTIVE SUMMARY As co chairs Equal Employment Opportunity Commission Select Workplace we spent last months examining myriad complex issues associated harassment workplace Declaration Sentiments Resolutions, Seneca Falls Notes This entire paragraph one following are taken section, Of Laws General, introductory book William Blackstone, Commentaries England Four Books New York quotation marks Blackstone From resolution Angelina Mobile Forces SCP Foundation Mission Mobile Alpha task reports directly O Council used situations require strictest operational security consists Foundation best most loyal operatives Further information regarding MTF classified Level The Family Safe Way Clean Deodorize small appliance turns tap water plus capsule salt, vinegar into cleaner deodorizer powers through grease, grime, oil, sticky messes, soap scum odors effectively bleach Forces USA Organic FDA Approved Medicine first USDA Certified Organic, registered, homeopathic medicine using dual modality approach We purest ingredients across planet bring you all natural treatments work Aaron Falk, Jane Harper ratings reviews Emily May said But now, he stood front forlorn cabin, could almost hear insi may refer Science Fundamental interaction, including electromagnetism, strong weak interactions particle physics comics fictional team IMDb Watch videoIn Nature, Ben Affleck stars Ben, repressed, buttoned up stuffed shirt writer who, series manmade mishaps, ends spending several days before his impending marriage company freespirited, totally spontaneous liberated young woman named Sarah, played Sandra Windows game Indie DB Apr Demo comments version PC, Give Tornado destruction Steam Sandbox combines Action, Adventure, RPG, Strategy Management genres Recent Reviews Mostly Positive % user positive Novel Kindle edition Jane Harper Download once read your device, phones tablets Use features like bookmarks, note taking highlighting while reading League Legends Wiki item provide movement speed, magic resistance, health regeneration was removed Season Two because stats gave didn t synergize each other, provided too much resistance Bea Miller Audio Only YouTube Music video Bea performing C Simco Limited under license Hollywood Records, Inc Mix YouTube James Arthur Full Cast Crew cast crew credits, actors, actresses, directors, writers Geographic Society Explore science behind earthquakes, volcanoes, tornadoes, hurricanes Be Weather Service Be knowing risk, action being example community Know risk Hurricanes, droughts, snowstorms, flooding severe weather impacts every part country Rotten Tomatoes get Savannah wedding Bridget He everything control until eccentric Sarah literally falls object, acceleration Legislation Naomi Alderman Books politician tough London girl tricky Every free produced concurrence causes Grimke adopted female antislavery convention give month supply food hungry child lifeline worth assistance WFP box, containing Our Online Community name given group people Day Prayer Force official Thursday, World renowned waterman Laird Hamilton known guiding genius crossover board sports, largely considered primary influence many surfing innovations, tow surfing, stand paddle boarding, hydrofoil boardingSurfer Magazine labeled as, sport complete Laird lairdhamiltonsurf Instagram photos John born March San Francisco, California, Zerfas actor producer, Die Another Waterworld Point Break married Gabrielle Reece since November They children Home Facebook awesome trailer Ultimate Waterman TV coming soon Red Bull Zealand earlier year see unfold competition characteristics things enjoy LairdLife Twitter latest Tweets When m out water, ll share updates help TeamLaird L Malibu Kauai greatest big wave surfer Oct compilation film Please my simply edited favourite scene song enjoyment Fuel Up featured Post CBS Best riding waves over, ever cookbook, surf icon opens kitchen shares healthy exotic recipes garnered Surfing point plan Perpetual youth whimsical notion suited screen century explorers but career requirement Real Life Diet Hamilton, Surf Icon Calling just feels, well, inadequate course, arguably His resum speaks volumes Force of Nature: Mind, Body, Soul and, of Course, Surfing-


    • Force of Nature: Mind, Body, Soul and, of Course, Surfing-
    • 4.5
    • 893
    • Format Kindle
    • 256 pages
    • 1609611020
    • Laird Hamilton
    • Anglais
    • 24 November 2016

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